“Griyo is the identity of any Haitian restaurant,” says Francois Nau. Sometimes spelled griot, the word refers to pork that’s been marinated in fresh herbs and sour orange, boiled until fork-tender, then fried—and it’s the centerpiece at Jojo Fritay, the Kennesaw restaurant Nau runs with his wife, Edith, and daughter Jo. “If you don’t speak Creole, griyo will make you speak it quickly,” he says.
Jennifer Zyman Jennifer Zyman is a Senior Writer at Food & Wine where she covers everything a home cook could need in their arsenal. She is also a freelance writer who writes about restaurants and develops recipes. She hosts the podcast The Food that Binds. Her work has appeared in The Atlanta-Journal Constitution, Atlanta Magazine, Bon Appetit, Creative Loafing Atlanta, Eater Atlanta, The Kitchn, The Local Palate, National Geographic, Serious Eats, Southern Living, and Thrillist, and her former website The Blissful Glutton.